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I prepared my first Thanksgiving feast the year my husband
was a student at Harvard University. We were living on the top floor of a
ramshackle Victorian that had seen better days and our apartment was about the
size of a disabled toilet. The living room had just enough space for one chair
and the bar my husband's parents had insisted was a necessity for gracious
entertaining.
Most of the students in my
husband's class lived too far away to drive home that November and the snows in
Cambridge precluded any notions of a quick flight. The airport had been
snowed in since late September and only the very courageous ventured out of
their homes, much less out of town. I was very glad we decided to forego a
couch and keep that bar after I volunteered to cook a holiday meal for our
crowd.
"Our crowd" meant every hungry
person I saw on the street including the check out girl at the A&P and that
ragged gas station attendant with the red nostrils I had almost murdered when I
crashed into his gas pump. My mother always prepared a holiday meal for a
minimum of thirty people not to mention those she saw waiting at a bus stop or
walking past the house anytime after Labor Day. She assured these
strangers that one extra at her table was no trouble and I believed her.
Mothers never lie.
By the time the last Monday in
November arrived, I had invited twenty people for a gala feast I fully intended
to cram into our living room along with a card table and two dozen extra
chairs. "You serve them drinks and keep them amused," I told my
husband. "I'll do the rest."
Although I had never organized
an elaborate holiday meal, I was certain I could put one together as easily as
my mother did because I had handed her the mixing bowls and washed the dishes
after her banquets for so many years. I had a very good memory and I could
read a cookbook.
The Wednesday before
Thanksgiving I went to the A&P, stuffed a 30 pound turkey and all the
paraphernalia I remembered on my mother's table into two shopping carts. I
pushed them to the checkout stand and reconfirmed my invitation to Janet, the
check out girl. "Be there at four," I said and I pointed to my overflowing
baskets. "We have lots of eating to do."
That night I baked a pumpkin pie
and an apple pie and mixed the dough for my ice box rolls. I put the pies
in tightly covered containers and set them out on the back porch where the
temperature was about 40 degrees below zero. My under-the-counter
refrigerator was packed with perishables and forty trays of ice. "People
drink more in cold weather," explained my husband.
"I thought you put olives in
martinis," I said.
"Most of my friends like scotch
on the rocks," he said.
I hauled out the Joy of Cooking
and read the directions for roasting a turkey. They seemed simple
enough. You rubbed the bird with grease, stuck it in a pan and let it cook
until you could rotate the drumstick. I prepared two jello and sour cream molds
and mixed the cheese dip for our hors d'oeuvres. I opened the refrigerator and
two jars of mayonnaise fell out and rolled across the floor. A bottle of
milk had been wedged so tightly on the top shelf that it had spurted most of its
contents on the butter and cranberry chutney below. I removed the ice
trays and repositioned everything in the refrigerator. "You better go out
and get some more gin," I called to my husband. "And olives."
The next morning, I stuffed the
bird with a lot of stale bread and onions and put it in the pan I had purchased
on special at K Mart. My oven was very old and small and in order to get
the roaster and the casserole of sweet potatoes in it, I had to tape the door
shut with freezer tape. The entire apartment became so warm, the candles
on my centerpiece melted into the pine cones and I felt like I was roasting at a
faster pace than my entree. I managed to peel potatoes, curl carrots, chop up
vegetables and whip the cream for my two pies by drinking a lot of water and
running to the window to breathe deeply as often as possible.
The pastry had frozen into rock
when I took them inside to spread the whipped cream on them, but there was no
room in the ice box and I had to put them back outside. I opened the
kitchen window as wide as it would go so that they would defrost in time for
dessert.
Upwards of thirty guests, two
small poodles and a stray cat managed to work up healthy appetites climbing the
four flights of stairs to our place and my husband greased the wheels of
conversation with straight gin martinis for everyone. I kept opening the oven to
test the turkey but the one I had purchased obviously was still suffering from a
severe case of rigor mortis. By the time I managed to move the
drumstick using both hands and holding the rest of the bird steady with a fork,
my company was well oiled and I was done in. My hair hung in soggy
wisps around my face, and I was so flushed with heat that I looked like I had
over dosed on Retin-A. My blouse was spattered with melted butter and
paprika and I had scorched the sleeve when I tried to rescue a flaming pot
of beans. The material hung in scorched streamers that trailed into my
vichyssoise and dripped white blobs across the floor. I arranged the
casseroles and side dishes on the table and realized I would have no room for
the turkey unless I put them on the window sill. I returned to the
kitchen, placed the bird on an immense platter, garnished it with parsley
and circles of cranberry sauce and carried it triumphantly into the dining
room. When I put it on the crowded table, one leg buckled. I propped
it up with our new Webster's dictionary but not before two water glasses spilled
into the cranberry sauce. "Dinner is served!" I exclaimed.
My husband's eyes were glazed
and he seemed to be having trouble enunciating his words. I handed him a
carving knife and smiled. "You carve, honey," I said.
"Why?" he asked. "My mother
always carved the turkey at our house."
I gave him a look reminiscent of
the one I would give him when I issued my ultimatum a year later. "Your
mother had a maid to cook the dinner," I said. "I didn't. You slice
that thing or we don't eat."
My husband gripped the table for
balance and plunged the knife into the turkey's breast. The bird bounced off the
platter and spurted a fountain of blood so high it left a red blotch on the
ceiling. Janet's eyes widened to the circumference of soup bowl.
"IT'S ALIVE!" she screamed and fainted across the table. The gas station
attendant stumbled on an overturned chair and fell at her feet. I decided
my only salvation was to live life in the Tao. I smiled at my
guests. "I'll just put the turkey back in the oven and bring in dessert,"
I announced. "This year we will celebrate Thanksgiving in
Reverse."
See Lynn
Ruth's website
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